SYNAGOGUE TRIESTE

The first document that testifies to a Jewish settlement in Trieste dates back to 1236. At the end of the eighteenth century there were four synagogues in Trieste. In 1903 an international competition was launched for the construction of a new large synagogue. Of the 42 projects presented, none were chosen because they were all unachievable and in 1906, the Jewish community entrusted itself directly to Ruggero Berlam, who was joined by his son Arduino, for the final project and purchased a fund in the then Piazza San Francesco d’Assisi , today Piazza Giotti, occupied at the end of the 19th century by the carpentry of Carlo Cante.
An international competition of ideas was also launched, for its construction, but the Temple both for its size and for its structure is a typical synagogue of the era of emancipation in which the main prayer hall, with a rectangular plan, is it is divided into three naves which culminate in the majestic apse with a golden mosaic vault. The main entrance is located in via Donizetti, where the large portal is opened on the most important holidays. while access to the Synagogue is from the small loggia in Via San Francesco.
The Temple is one of the largest and most majestic in Europe, and is characterized by oriental references that come back in the mullioned windows, in the columns, in the carvings and in the characteristic rose windows that draw the Star of David. The interior has three naves: the two side aisles are surmounted by women’s galleries. The floor is mosaic. The decorations are limited to geometric figures or plant shapes. The apse, preceded by an arch decorated with mosaics, emphasizes the Holy Ark, with the pink granite aedicule, surmounted by the Tables of the Law. At the center of the balcony a bundle of ears, symbol of the Community. The construction of the temple began in 1908 but the official delivery to the community and the inauguration took place in June 1912.
Over the decades, the Temple, of German rite, has been a witness and also a victim of all the events that involved Trieste Jews and the entire city during the period of the fascist racial laws promulgated in 1938 and at the time of the Nazi occupation of the city. Smeared on the outside for the first time in October 1941 with insulting phrases by the fascists, it was also heavily devastated internally on 18 July 1942 by a group of squadrists.
With the Nazi occupation, in 1944 the synagogue was transformed into a warehouse for Jewish goods and was further damaged inside. In June 1945 the reopening ceremony of the Temple in front of the allied forces marked the return to life of the survivors of the local Jewish community;
In 2000, some stained glass windows of the temple damaged by the 1976 earthquake were replaced and in June 2012 the Community celebrated the first centenary of the Temple together with all the citizens. In the Via San Francesco complex there are also the offices of the Community, the library, the historical archive and the mikveh (ritual bath).

PALAZZO GOPCEVICH – CARLO SCHMIDL THEATER MUSEUM TRIESTE

Spiridione Gopcevich, a rich merchant of the Serbo-Orthodox community, commissioned the design of the building to the architect Giovanni Berlam who was inspired by the eclectic style of the Doge’s Palace in Venice.
the Palace was built between 1847 and 1850 and Gopcevich lived there for twenty years. The Palace was too large for a single dwelling and therefore was divided into two halves, one on the Grand Canal and the other up towards via Machiavelli.In 1921 it became the headquarters of the Danubio Insurance Company, then in 1928 of the Cassa Marittima Adriatica and in 1999 it was bought by the Municipality to make it a Theater Museum.
The central door is surmounted by a balcony with parapet and balustrade, supported by winged horses and on the first floor on the facade of the Palace there are four niches representing, according to some, Count Zrinnski and his wife, on the left, and Count Kristofer Frankopan ( Cristoforo Frangipane) and consort, on the right. But according to other experts, the four characters are the heroes of the battle of Kosovo Poljo, Campo dei Merli, fought between Serbs and Turks on June 15, 1389: prince Lazzar Grabljanovich, his wife Milica (left) and the leader Milos Obilic and an anonymous Red Cross nurse who cared for the wounded on the battlefield (right).
The interior rooms have various stucco decorations on the ceilings and parquet floors with inlays, while the grand staircase that opens from the entrance is in marble.Carlo Schmidl and the birth of the Carlo Schmidl Museum (Trieste 7 October 1859 – 7 October 1943) , son of a Hungarian band director who moved from Budapest to Trieste, Carlo Schmidl began his thirteen year old activity as a copyist and clerk at the Fondaco Vicentini.
It is a music shop, also promoter of some publishing initiatives, of great importance in the Trieste musical life of the nineteenth century, which will later be taken over by Schmidl himself.
In fifty years he has collected booklets, photographs, theater programs, posters and playbills, autographs and memorabilia and any other type of material documenting theatrical and musical life in Trieste. As an author, Schmidl published the Universal Dictionary of Musicians (first edition: Ricordi, 1887) which still remains an indispensable tool for any investigation into the ‘musicography’ of the late nineteenth century.
The Civic Theater Museum was founded in December 1924, Carlo Schmidl stipulates an agreement with the Municipality of Trieste by which his historical-musical collection, the result of half a century of activity, is made public.
Appointed curator for life of the Museum, he kept the ownership and at the same time the management of the Collection and personally oversaw the increase with documents and data.
Upon his death in 1943, Schmidl bequeathed his collection to the municipality. Meanwhile, in 1936, the “Giuseppe Verdi” Municipal Theater Autonomous Body was established, which provides new spaces for the collections of the ever-growing Museum.
Except for the interlude of the Second World War, when the collections are put in safety in other locations, the historic building of the Verdi Theater therefore houses the Civic Theater Museum of the Carlo Schmidl Foundation (this is the name from 1947 onwards) until the closure of the Theater for the renovations in the early 1990s. Provisionally set up in the seat of Palazzo Morpurgo in Via Imbriani, the Museum has found its definitive location in Palazzo Gopcevich.

LUTHERAN CHURCH TRIESTE

The first five Lutheran families arrived in Trieste in 1717 to be able to carry out trade in Trieste declared a free port. In 1852 Trieste had 2353 Evangelicals, Lutherans and Reformed. The first public act of the community was the opening of the Evangelical cemetery in 1754. The Lutheran cult was authorized by Maria Theresa of Austria only in 1778, therefore three years before the edict of tolerance of Emperor Joseph II. Thanks to the reforms of this enlightened ruler, the Lutheran community was granted land for the construction of a church where they could profess their worship. The area was called Piazza dei Carradori, because since the 18th century it was used as a station for carters; later it was called the square of the Evangelical Church and, finally, largo Odorico Panfili.

The building was built between 1871 and 1874 under the direction of Giovanni Berlam and Giovanni Scalmanini, but the original project is attributable to the architect Karl J.C. Zimmermann of Hamburg. The design and construction were inspired by the “Nicolai kirche” church in Hamburg, built in 1844 by the Englishman GGScott. The solemn inauguration took place on 1 November 1874. The church, in neo-Gothic style, was built in Istrian stone, with a slate roof, it has a bell tower 50 meters high and stained glass windows.

Inside there are two neoclassical funeral monuments that contrast with the Gothic lines of the exterior, sculpted around 1823 by Antonio Bosa and coming from the Church of the Rosary, the former seat of the evangelical community. One is dedicated to the stock trader Giorgio Enrico Trapp, the other to the Danish consul G. Dumreicher d’Osterreicher.
The bronze bells of the bell tower, obtained from the fusion of French cannons, were donated by the German emperor William I. The altar, the pulpit and the mechanical organ also came from Germany. The choir window, made in Munich and depicting the “Transfiguration of Christ” (inspired by the famous painting by Raphael), a gift from the Rittmeyer family, is wonderful.

CHURCH OF SAN NICOLÒ TRIESTE

The liberalization of trade in the Adriatic sanctioned with a license by Charles VI of 1717, the Passorowitz treaty with which trade was developed through Trieste between Austria and the Ottoman Empire, which included the Greek nation (the Greek state did not yet exist) , but above all the edict of Charles VI himself of 1719 with which Trieste was declared a free port, laid the foundations for the development of trade and the settlement of colonies of peoples of other nationalities in Trieste. Particular importance assumed the stock market traders, maritime traders and many wealthy shopkeepers from numerous regions of Greece.One of the first Greeks was Nicolò Mainati from Zante (1734): together with others he formed a single community of Orthodox Greeks with a minority presence of Illyrians, now Serbs. In fact, a Greek term identified religion and not nationality.In 1751, the year of the granting of freedom of worship by Maria Theresa, the archimandrite Om ero Damasceno also obtained to erect, in the area adjacent to the canal, a church dedicated to San Spiridione.In 1770 the difference in language and customs led the Greeks to ask the government for separation from the Illyrians. The Eastern Greek community was thus officially formed in 1782 and the request for authorization to erect its own temple on the seafront was the first act. The construction took place between 1784 and 1795, but the first mass was already celebrated there in 1787.Subsequently in 1818 the original facade was embellished by the architect Matteo Pertsch, a pupil of the Milanese Piermarini, named here for this and many other works by Demetrio Carciotti; the temple was closed by a new gate. The façade is articulated on six Ionic pilasters on a high base and is crowned by an enlarged tympanum on which two bell towers rise with probable German Baroque influence. The well-concerted bells, cast in Udine by Cobalchini, spread a harmonic sound.
Above the entrance door, under the semirosone, the epigraph on black marble recalls the construction permit granted by the sovereigns of Austria and the aforementioned restoration: “With the permission of the August sovereigns of Austria, the Greeks built this consecrated temple in 1786 to the SS. Trinità and their patron San Nicolò in order to be able to practice religion there according to the rite of their fathers and then in 1819 they restored and possibly embellished it “. The Greeks of Trieste dedicated the new temple to San Nicolò and to the Holy Trinity: to this, as the root and end of the whole Christian world, to the Saint for the veneration enjoyed throughout the Levant and because it is the patron saint of the people who experience seafaring activities . In fact, Trieste had been devoted to him for centuries: the oldest shipyard was also named after San Nicolò. A regular plan, it is divided into three liturgical spaces: the presbytery with three small apses, the nave and the two balconies for the gynoecium and the choir .

The magnificent iconostasis divides the presbytery reserved for celebrants from the nave accessed by the faithful.The nave with a marble floor with black and white squares is softened by stalls along the walls. In the center, between large candelabra, the icon of San Nicolò is flanked and, on the special proskinitirion, the icon that recalls the festivity in progress. The large canvas depicting Christ in glory surrounded by angels covers the entire flat ceiling and is rich of perspective effects with balustrades and glimpses of classical architecture. This painting (oil on canvas) can be attributed to an anonymous Greek painter educated mainly at the Ionic Academy of Panaghiotis Doxaras (1662-1729) not without influences of the Venetian school. Between the windows images of the Evangelists and the Apostles. On the side walls two large paintings by Piranese Cesare dell’Acqua (1821) depicting the Preaching of John the Baptist on the left and Christ among the children on the right; the picture above the right door depicts the Filoxenia, or Abraham’s hospitality towards the angels, and is attributable to the same hand as the ceiling canvas. The iconostasis in the Orthodox places of worship separates the presbytery from the faithful: it spreads a sense of richness with the shimmer of silver that frames and covers the icons that compose it.Fulcher of the sacred place, it is the work of an unknown carver and reflects the Empire style in the general structure and of Baroque style in the decoration.

Similar to the one that had been executed by Treppan (1794) for the old San Spiridione, it rises on three registers and opens onto the presbytery with three doors called “regal”: in the center of the carved and gilded wooden doors are inserted oval painted in tempera. On the crown, made with spirals and scrolls, there is the Crucifix between the Madonna and St. John, decorated with symbols of the evangelists made by the same hand that decorated the “royal” doors. The three canvases of the upper register depict Jesus in Gethsemane, the Deposition and the Noli me tangere.In the middle register the iconostasis bears twenty-one icons in tempera on wood with a gold background depicting the Life of Jesus, from the Annunciation to the Ascension, made by the Greek painter Giovanni Trigonis ; during the year these are exhibited on the proskinitirion for the veneration of the faithful. The Trigonis, a native of the Ionian islands, worked in Trieste from 1786 to 1833 and opened a school of painting there which was then entrusted to his son. The eight despotic icons of the lower register , made by Trigonis himself: six of the splendid embossed silver covers are due to the Greek artist Costantino Ghertzos working in Venice and dated 1839-1856. These icons recall, in order from the left, San Giorgio, San Spiridione, San Nicolò, the Madonna and Child, Christ Enthroned, the Trinity, San Giovanni Precursore and Santa Caterina. Giorgio and Santa Caterina, the first are due to Russian goldsmithing in 1848, and the second to a Trieste artist.

At the time of the consecration of the church (1787), the Greek community of Jerusalem donated eight small icons that reproduce in a reduced size, the images of the large icons described here, the silver covers of which allow only a few details to be glimpsed. These icons, which show themselves on elegant shelves below, are attributable to a hand that has assimilated late Baroque motifs while operating in the Palestinian area.The altars of the presbytery, visible from the royal doors of the Iconostasis, are inserted in small apses. central appear frescoes with the Saints Giovanni, Giacomo, Basilio and Atanasio that surround the SS. Trinity and the Madonna; in the lateral apses on the left the Nativity and on the right the Deposition from the Cross.The wooden pulpit, richly decorated with gilded stucco, shows four tempera panels depicting the four evangelists while on the entrance door is depicting the Christos Basileus, all by Trigonis. The pulpit is crowned by an Austrian frieze, a sign of gratitude for the concession, received by the rulers of the house of Austria, to the construction of the new church.The balconies, placed above the entrance door and partially on the sides, are supported by shelves and columns; the lower one, once the gynoecium, is decorated with ten panels in oil on canvas, attributable to the same hand that created the upper register of the iconostasis.

They depict biblical scenes such as, in order, The Sacrifice of Isaac, The Entry of Jesus into Jerusalem, The Creation of Eve, The Expulsion of the Merchants from the Temple and The Dream of Jacob. The upper balcony, which forms the stage for the singers , is decorated with canvases depicting the death of Abel, Jonah fleeing from the whale and Noah’s family after the flood.During the festivities of Holy Week and Easter particularly heartfelt celebrations take place: the representation of the Holy Sepulcher takes place through the Epitafios, a wooden sculpture of the end of the 18th century attributable to a local artisan workshop.Suspended on 10 columns, the canopy is surmounted by three domes: in its upper part fourteen polychrome tables describe the passion and death of Christ, from prayer in the garden to the deposition from the cross.

The Greek community contributed significantly to the development of the city by founding commercial firms, shops for port markets and insurance institutions, also increasing the artistic and architectural furnishings with numerous buildings and also intervening in the social sector, reaching a maximum number of 5000 people. and changed socio-economic conditions, resulting from the first great conflict and the Italo-Greek war of the 1940s, put the Community in difficulty. Today it is made up of about 600 Greeks, they live and tenaciously strive to continue to give good witness to the hopes of the nation and the light of Orthodoxy.
It is said that women wishing for a child rubbed themselves near the gate of the Church of San Nicolò to hear their wish.

PALAZZO AEDES. THE “RED PALACE” TRIESTE

In 1926 the newly formed Aedes limited company launched the idea of creating an American-style building in Trieste to the local newspaper “Il Piccolo”. “It will be the first frankly and Americanly modern building in Trieste”. his idea for the construction of the Aedes palace, later known as the “Red Palace”. The first “skyscraper” in the city, in a style between the Secession and Nordic Expressionism, inspired by the new red brick skyscrapers of the New York era. Built between 1926 and 1928 by the architect Arduino Berlam and designed by Carlo Polli.
Between 1924 and 1925 the drawings were rejected several times by the Commission of the City’s Technical Office because the building was too tall. A commission asked to change the floors in nine, bringing the height to 50 meters, changing the top of the building, strengthening the pillars on the ground floor and presenting ideas for polychrome decoration, also indicating which materials should be used. The prefect exposed the matter directly to Mussolini, who gave a favorable opinion on the continuation of the works and it is said that he said: “Let them go on at full speed and don’t pay attention to those fools.” It was inaugurated on August 31, 1928 and in 1932 was bought by Assicurazioni Generali. The highest central part ending in a turret and the majolica tiles that decorate the facades are the valuable details that distinguish the building on the banks of Trieste.

GENERAL INSURANCE BUILDING TRIESTE

Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali, on the banks of Trieste, was commissioned in 1883 by the Assicurazioni Generali company, founded in 1831, to engineer Eugenio Geiringer. The construction of the building began in 1884 and ended in 1886. The building, in neo-Greek style, was enlarged in the second decade of the twentieth century with a rear wing.

On the façade, a tympanum with two obelisks bears the wording “Assicurazioni Generali”, the year of foundation of the Company and the construction of the building. In the vestibule there is a large bronze bas-relief depicting warriors and winged victories, the work of the Genoese sculptor Luigi Supino. In 1939 Carlo Sbisa painted two frescoes in the atrium of the building. In the Council Room there are numerous historical pieces and honors including the San Giusto d’Oro, delivered by the city to Assicurazioni Generali to proudly represent Trieste the whole world. Palazzo delle Generali was the first building in Trieste to use electric light for office lighting